Lake Tahoe, is a spectacularly beautiful freshwater lake situated in a bowl of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, straddling the California and Nevada state line.

The basin was formed by a complex sequence of geological events, including multiple igneous intrusions, followed by several episodes of faulting and finished by glaciers.

Highway 50 runs through the town of South Lake Tahoe, the main road is cut by the state line, on the California side the town is a wholesome, outdoorsy sort of place bustling with water skiers, kayakers, paddleboarders, cyclists during the warmer months and replaced by skiers and snowboarders in winter.

Along the road, the state line with Nevada is marked, not so much by a signpost, but the sudden appearance of high-rise hotels, casinos and glaring, brash neon. I have the impression active outdoor pursuits are not high on the agenda here.

I have seldom seen anything quite so utterly incongruous and out of keeping with its surroundings, fortunately this affront to the natural beauty of the lake is confined within the city limits.

This beautiful body of water descends to a maximum depth of 1645 feet, the water is crystal clear and, thanks to those charged with its care, has very low levels of Nitrogen and Phosphorus contaminant and little pollution, as all waste is removed from the area and does not find its way back into the lake.

This pristine environment boasts a rich flora and fauna, the lake banks and surrounding hillsides are forested, water birds thrive, small native mammals abound and the hills are even home to brown bears, although sadly not in evidence today.

Whilst much of the Eastern lakeshore is in private hands, many of the public lakeside access points are designated as State Parks, and although an access fee is payable, this does mean the areas are clean, well managed, equipped with facilities to reduce pollution and the watersport businesses controlled.

Some might complain about paying a fee to access the lake but as long as the area is preserved then these are public dollars at work for the public’s enjoyment.

In much the same way as South Lake Tahoe distinctly differentiates California from Nevada, so the two sides of the Lake Tahoe shore are also distinctly different.

The West shore is bordered by the Sierra Nevada mountains which fall steeply to the waters edge. The beaches are much smaller, the shoreline more heavily wooded and the shoreline is less densely populated.

The steepness of the lake shore also means the water is much deeper and much colder on the western side, but is still crystal clear.

Our first stop today is at the small State Park at Taylor Creek. We have the place almost to ourselves and enjoy a peaceful walk around the wetland reserve, accompanied by dragonflies, butterflies and birds, the Stellar’s Jay and White Headed Woodpecker were a particular delight.

Wetlands such as these play a vital role in filtering the water entering the lake helping to ensure its clarity.

The Sierra Nevada, forms the western rim to the Tahoe Basin, the foremost peak in this region is Mt Tallac at 9,735 feet.

A little way up the coast is Emerald Bay, a deep water inlet off the main lake, containing Fannette Island.

Parking at a roadside trailhead we locate a trail leading to Eagle Falls and Eagle Lake. The trail climbs steeply into the mountains, shortly passing Eagle Falls, at the end of a dry summer the falls are less than impressive, but continuing onwards for another mile or so and upwards for several hundred feet, we reach Eagle Lake, a glacial lake surrounded by granite peaks.

The water, like the main lake is gin clear. This place feels very special, we spend some time watching the water birds, the flashes of sapphire blue as the Stellar Jays swoop amongst the trees, and dragonflies dart along the shoreline.

High above, making the trip from nests higher up the mountain slopes to the lake to feed, we glimpse large raptors, which we believe to be Ospreys.

Around halfway up the Western side we stop at Sugarpine Point.

This estate was once the summer retreat of the wealthy Hellman-Ehrman family during the 1920’s.

We take lunch with the ghosts of this Gatsby era style house, overlooking the turquoise blue water, surrounded by towering pine trees.

Behind the old estate building we find General Creek, one of 63 creeks which flow into Lake Tahoe. This tranquil body of water has not a ripple on its surface and perfectly reflects the surrounding hills and trees.