Time spent in Northumberland always seems to recharge the batteries. The last time we were in Lindisfarne we decided that next time we would stay the night and experience this very special place when the crowds retreat across the causeway before the tide. For such a tiny place, The Holy Island of Lindisfarne offers something for everyone from its medieval religious history, 16th century castle and more recent wildlife conservation reserve. Underlying all of this is a deep sense of peace and tranquility which rather belies the blood soaked massacre of the monks, by Viking marauders, in the 8th century.


For many years local fishermen have considered it bad luck to consign old boats to the junkyard, instead they repurposed the upturned hulls of old herring boats as storage huts for small boats and fishing equipment. Whilst many of these iconic structures are quite ancient, a fire, in 2005, destroyed the original huts adjacent to the castle. These were subsequently replaced, using traditional techniques, and an old herring trawler from off-island.

A visit to Cragside is a must. It is a bonkers house, built in the 19th century by William Armstrong, a prominent engineer (and Victorian arms dealer!). Armstrong was an early adopter of electric power, Cragside was the first house to be powered by hydro-electric turbines, and, for its time, was a very "smart" home indeed.


Built on the side of a steep forested hillside, miles of footpaths wind through the trees, mostly coniferous, and an impressive collection of Rhododendrons, sadly not in bloom at the time of our visit.

The drive inland, via Alnwick passes through some stunning countryside, somehow combining the rolling hills and big skies of "God's Own Country" with villages of buttery coloured stone, which could almost have been transplanted from the Cotswolds. This is a well deserved Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.

The tiny fishing village of Craster, on the coast 8 miles or so from Alnwick, is a fine starting point to leave the car and walk along the coastal path to the derelict remains of Dunstanburgh Castle.


The village retains a small harbour, home to local herring boats, and a smokery producing Craster Kippers. Sadly, as with so many other picturesque coastal villages it is falling prey to the plague that is the "holiday let" business, pushing up property values, pricing the locals out of homes and resulting in communities which are slowly dying, standing largely empty for half the year and used by tourists, coming and going, for the other half.

A little way south of Craster is the lovely village of Alnmouth. Stone built houses overlook a broad sweep of wild sandy beach backed by sand dunes. No longer an active fishing port, due to shifting and silting of the river estuary, it makes a pleasant stop to enjoy lunch in the sunshine, and watch the waders work the shoreline.

Unlike Alnmouth, Amble remains a busy fishing port, based at the mouth of the River Coquet, overlooking the sea bird reserve of Coquet Island, home to 90% of the entire UK Roseate Tern population.


The waterfront is a bustling regeneration of bars, restaurants and retail pods, mainly selling tourist tat. Uniquely, the harbour area has a sheltered "lagoon" beach, complete with a collection of colourful beach huts, and around the headland, in common with other coastal towns of the area, is a broad stretch of "links" beach, backed by sand dunes.


Up river lies the ancient town of Warkworth. It's medieval castle is remarkably well preserved and spectacularly located on high ground guarding against any approach up river from the sea.