Our arrival into Malta, after dark, was an interesting experience. Official Maltese sources claim transit from the airport to Valletta is walkable...good luck with that; we chose a taxi, tomorrow we will explore the bus network. Slightly relieved to survive the journey in the madness that is Maltese traffic we arrive inside the ancient walled city of Valletta, and are deposited a short hike from our hotel, situated at the top of a quiet, steep, stepped street. We let ourselves into a very old converted town house, haul our bags up endless flights of stairs, find our room, quickly appreciate the architecture and then head down those very same steps in search of a late dinner.

The city is still busy on a balmy late summer evening, bars and restaurants doing a lively trade with tables set out in the street making the most of the warm night air. I could get used to this!

Built on a grid pattern, the 3 or 4 main streets and the stepped cross streets in Valletta are prohibited to traffic, by day this is the tourist heart of the city and by night transforms into a bewildering selection of al fresco bars and restaurants. The relaxed crowds taking pleasure in walking, talking and generally soaking up the history and antiquity of this renaissance city which has seen so much over the years. This history means that the walls surrounding the city provide some stunning views down picturesque alleys, the waterfront and across the Grand Harbour to The Three Cities.

Taking the opportunity to get our bearings we decide to go walkabout, starting at the Upper Barrakka Gardens high on the city walls the view across the Grand Harbour is simply stunning. The amount of maritime activity is endlessly fascinating...colourful fishing boats (Luzzu) returning with their catch, water taxis shuttling between Valletta and Cospicua, cruise ships and the Gozo fast ferry all going about their business.

Further on to the Castille Bastion we reach the Siege Bell memorial. It is a place of quiet reflection and contemplation to remember the dead of 1940-43 Siege of Malta. Next to the belfry is a bronze catafalque overhanging the bastion parapet. It represents the burial of the corpse of the Unknown Soldier at sea, and is quite moving in it's symbolism.

Occupying a geographically strategic position in the Mediterranean, Malta has fallen to invasion and occupation by many different forces including the Phoenicians, the Romans, the Moors, the Knights of St John, Napoleon's Army, and the British (to oust the French), finally achieving independence (from the British) in 1964 and becoming a republic in 1974. Each of these occupiers have left their mark on the island. Perhaps the most destructive phase in it's history resulted from the aerial battering inflicted by the Axis powers during WWII.

The city was particularly badly damaged but huge effort went into the sympathetic rebuilding of the walled city. Today it's renaissance roots are clearly reflected in the architecture, tall limestone buildings with ornate balconies somewhat reminiscent of Venice and Lisbon. Often the true beauty of these buildings lies within, behind the street facade, cool rooms, stone walls, wooden floors and ceilings around shady courtyards.

Since 1980 Valletta has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site on account of its historical and cultural significance.

Taking a step further back in history we join the hoards to visit the Co-Cathedral of St John and learn more about the Order of the Knights of St John, who gave so much wealth and protection to the island. The building started out as a basic catholic church, but the bequests of every grand master and the many knights themselves have elevated this building into the most amazing treasure packed with priceless works of art (including by Caravaggio), dripping with precious metals, adorned with lavish frescoes and floored by stunning carved, tessellated marble slabs, each of which is actually a tombstone. It is quite breathtaking.