The ancient city of Venice has developed from the 9th century, spread over a series of tiny islands linked by canals and bridges, Venice was a major commercial and maritime power from the Middle Ages and Renaissance.

Today its future is threatened by erosion, rising sea levels, sinking into the silty bottom of the lagoon and the vast number of visiting tourists. Cars are not allowed within the city (cannot be brought closer than the car parks at the main railway station). Other than by walking, transportation is limited to Gondole, water taxis, small private boats or larger water buses (vaporetto).

The Grand Canal cuts the main city in two, although the whole of Venice sees huge numbers of visitors, the main tourist trail runs from St Marks Square north westwards towards the cruise ship terminal and railway / bus station at Piazzale Roma.

This well trodden route passes through the districts of San Marco, San Polo and Santa Croce, crossing the Rialto Bridge en route. Consumerism is well catered for with high-end designer stores, ‘souvenir’ shops and a myriad restaurants pushing the Tourist Menu.

Venture off the beaten track to see and get the best out of your visit to Venice.

Venice oozes history out of every stone.

From the 9th century the seat of power was moved to Venice and the Ducal (Doge’s) Palace was built, in the Venetian Gothic style. Occupying a prominent position on the San Marco waterfront, it is difficult to miss.

A tour of the Doge’s Palace is a must, even better is to precede a visit to the public rooms with an additional tour of the “secret palace”, a behind the scenes visit to the less glamorous administrative areas, the cells (including that once occupied by Casenova), the torture chamber, and crossing the Ponte del Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) to the “new” cell block.

Having marveled at the “Secret Palace” the visitor passes through a nondescript doorway and finds themselves in the gilded splendour of the public rooms of the Doge’s Palace.

Hundreds of priceless works of art decorate the walls and ceilings. The public rooms are an ostentatious display of the wealth and power of the ruling Doges.

To the East of San Marco is the Castello.

Today this is still primarily a residential region. The number of tourists falls away dramatically, the designer stores and ornate buidings of Central Venice are replaced by more ordinary dwellings and the businesses tend to be those catering to the residents rather than the tourists. The bars and restaurants are much quieter, and whist tourists are still welcome the fare will be more rustic and ‘authentic’ and all the better for it.

Lying across the lagoon, to the South from Central Venice is La Giudecca. Whist the name ‘Giudecca’ may suggest some ancient Jewish commune, there is no evidence for this however, the main Jewish settlement in Venice was known to be Cannaregio to the North.

San Giorgio Maggiore lies off the Eastern tip of La Giudecca.

The San Giorgio Campanile provides stunning elevated views across the Giudecca Canal to the San Marco waterfront, the Campanile and the pink façade of the Doge’s Palace.

Today La Giudecca is largely residential with a couple of 5 star hotels catering for the tourist market. Vaporetto are numerous and frequent making it a simple matter to hop backwards and forwards from La Giudecca to San Marco or Dorsodouro.

To the south of the Grand Canal and North from Giudecca is the region of Dorsodouro. This is the Artistic and University district, a little off the beaten tourist trail, there are museums, packed with the works of Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese etc, fewer crowds, more reasonable prices (slightly) and atmospheric baccari serving the ubiquitous cicchetti.

Providing pedestrian access to San Marco across the Grand Canal is the Accademia Bridge.

The wooden Accademia Bridge is the southernmost of the 4 bridges crossing the Grand Canal. It provides a beautiful view eastwards with the Santa Maria Della Salute on the right. Westwards the Grand Canal bends to the right and leads to the more dramatic Rialto Bridge crossing the Canal.

On the San Marco side of the Accademia bridge is the Palazzo Cavalli-Franchetti art gallery. At the time of this post the exhibition of modern art at the gallery was marked by a giant Spaceman created by the artist Joseph Klibansky.

When darkness falls in Venice the city is transformed into a romantically lit fairytale. Gondolas ply their well remunerated trade both on the Grand Canal but also down the quiet side canals. The many visitors evaporate, from the streets... pause for a few minutes and you will hear the whispering of cloaks as the ghosts of these ancient streets make their way to and from masked balls.

Maybe that’s just me, cross a canal, negotiate a dimly lit street and the dodgy handbag sellers will again be in your face, providing a stark reminder of our times.

An hour by vaporetto from San Marco lies the small island of Burano. Like a budget version of Venice, Burano is a land of canals and bridges, but without the opulence of its neighbour.

In the 16th century the women of Burano were famous for the laborious and highly skilled work of making handmade lace. Lace remains for sale today but most is made by machine, although a few stores still specialise in selling the handmade product.

Today Burano is more popularly known for its brightly coloured houses. The economy is based on Tourism and as a fishing community, making its living from the lagoon.

The long term survival of Burano is under threat. The island regularly floods during the winter months, and the hardship of life here is resulting in a widespread exodus of the young people who prefer to make their lives among the greater opportunities and security of the mainland.

Like its neighbours, Venice and Burano, the island, or more correctly the islands of Murano feature a maze of canals and bridges.

Towards the end of the 13th century the Venetian glassmakers were forced to relocate to Murano, due to the risk of fire. For several hundred years Murano was the centre for the production and export of Venetian glass. Still the major industry on the island, decline has taken its toll and the diminished demand for fine glass has been supplanted by a demand for ornaments and tourist tat (who mentioned Murano clowns?).

The Grand Canal is the major water-traffic corridor that separates the 2 major ‘islands’ of Venice, Santa Croce, San Polo and Dorsodouro to the South, whilst Cannaregio, San Marco and Castello lie to the North.

Some people choose to hire a gondola or a water taxi in order to traverse the Grand Canal. A more cost effective option is simply to take a Vaporetto, although slightly frenetic and a little crowded and uncomfortable, this water-bus zig-zags from one end to the other, making alternate stops on either bank.

Joining at Piazzale Roma, arrive early, grab seats at the front, camera ready and enjoy the ride !!!

Cannaregio (North) is historically referred to as The Ghetto, The Palazzos of the wealthy Jewish merchants and bankers line the canal and screen the ‘poorer’ housing deeper into the ghetto. Many of these large Palazzos have now been converted into luxury hotels.

Passing the fish market in San Polo, on the South bank, a gondola ‘water-bridge’ (traghetti) nimbly dodges the vaporetto as it ferries passengers from bank to bank across the Grand Canal. A full 90 degree bend in the canal brings the Rialto Bridge into view.

The oldest of the 4 Grand Canal crossings, the Rialto is a bit of a “Triggers broom” of bridges. It has been re-built 4 times over the years, the present stone structure dates from the late 16th century and today is a major visitor attraction conveniently situated on the main north-south tourist trail.

Many side canals open onto the Grand Canal, navigable by small motor boats and the ubiquitous Gondola, they give access to a watery labyrinth servicing and providing access to the densely packed houses, hotels, shops and restaurants. Early morning deliveries, and cheerful singing gondoliers remove the need for an alarm call.

The Grand Canal is lined by around 170 Palazzos. Occasionally sheer size and lavish neo-gothic architecture were simply not sufficient to show off ones wealth, for these individuals gilded and lavishly painted facades were the seasons must have accessory.

The Gondola and the Gondolier are synonymous with Venice. No longer the preferred commercial transport, Gondole today cater for the masses of tourists seeking to enhance their experience of living inside a Canaletto painting.

Castello is the largest of Venice’s sestiere. Largely a residential area with relatively few hotels it is quiet and off the beaten track.

East of San Marco is the Arsenale, a relic of Venice’s past as a major maritime nation. This was the seat of Venice’s military power and centre of shipbuilding.

Further east, after days negotiating the narrow streets and canals of central Venice stumbling across the Via Garibaldi is a genuine surprise. This is the widest street in Venice, originally a canal, now filled in, this relatively open space has a unique feel, an atmosphere capitalised on by the many shops, bars and restaurants lining it.

The Eastern Castello houses much of Venice’s resident population and has a very different feel to the rest of Venice.

Photogenic in its own way, the Eastern Castello is in stark contrast to the Palazzo of the Grand Canal, however it does have open space and every 2 years plays host, on the Giardini della Biennale Arte, to the major contemporary Art exhibition that is the Venice Biennale.